Sunday, January 22, 2017

Chagga & Maasai



There are two main traditional cultural groups in northern Tanzania.  The Chagga people live on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro and the surrounding hills.  They seem to dominate the East and South areas around Kilimanjaro.  The Maasai people live mostly to the North and West of Kilimanjaro.  Historically I think that they lived separate from each other but today there are areas in which these groups interact.  

My experience with these groups is limited to the 5 weeks that I have spent with them – mostly with the Chagga.  Many people have gone out of their way to show me kindness and a warm welcome.  I especially enjoy seeing the large numbers of children who love to say ‘hello’ to the muzungu or white person.  However, I am mostly still a mystery to them since their perception of the United States is mostly formed by the media and by various aid organizations.  Although I am a modest farmer in the United States with an income below the federal poverty line, I am considered quite wealthy by Tanzanian standards.  My family size also does not fit the perception of an American family.  In the same way, their culture is largely still a mystery to me.  Although I am present with them, I do not have anyone to explain what I am seeing.  There are many habits and customs that I do not understand.  

The Chagga have lived around Kilimanjaro for centuries in a tribal system.  Hundreds of separate tribes traded and fought with each other.  With a favorable climate and source of water, they grew crops such as banana, maize, beans, yams, and coffee.  In the 19th century, the Germans took control of the area and eventually set up a system of colonial rule.  After World War I, the area was given to the British and they ruled until Tanzanian independence in 1961.  German missionaries introduced Christianity to the area through the Lutheran and Catholic Church.  I drove past a German Catholic church that was built out of stone around 1890.  I also read that the parish was founded by an Irish Catholic so I’m not sure which is accurate.  I have asked several people about their history and they do not seem to study it or to know it.  I also spoke with an elderly German woman who told me about how her Lutheran grandparents were the first to write down the Chagga language. 

Although I do not know much about the history of Christianity in the area, the Chagga tribe embraced it wholeheartedly.  I am in an area with Catholic parishes and schools every mile.  An elderly priest told me that over 90% of the people are Catholic and there are not other churches around.  The larger towns and cities are more diverse.  There are different areas in which the Lutherans are established.  In the Catholic parishes and schools, I have yet to see a white priest or student or parishioner.  Religious vocations are also plentiful and schools are run by nuns and brothers.  One priest told me that one of the religious orders in the Dioceses has 1000 sisters.  Most of the priests and religious that I have met are younger than I.  

Several online descriptions of the Chagga people, assert that Christianity and the European influence has led to the prosperity of these people.  I suppose that is up for debate but certainly the Church emphasized education and hard work.  The Chagga were also traditionally known for their work ethic and many of them have been able to prosper.  The population of the Chagga is close to 1 million and continues to grow rapidly. They have spread to all parts of Tanzania.   

The Maasai people were traditionally pastoralists who cared for herds of cattle and goats.  They did not grow crops but wandered throughout the plains surrounding Mount Kilimanjaro.  Their diet came from their livestock and they survived on milk, meat, and blood.  They travelled great distances with their large herds in order to find enough grass.  The Maasai are famous for their piercings and for their ear stretching.  They were taller than other tribes and dominated the region.  Traditionally the wealthy Maasai took several wives and had many children.  I met a man with 3 wives and I have heard stories of Maasai with up to 10 wives.  

Although the cultures have many similarities, I think that there are also conflicts.  I have asked several Chagga men about the Maasai and they do not think very highly of several Maasai habits.  First, the Maasai men have a reputation for not working hard.  Some of this probably comes from that fact that many of them can no longer care for their animals in the traditional way.  Grazing land has been reduced due to population growth, sporadic rainfall, and preserved land for national parks.  Many Maasai now live in towns but they often do not pursue education or regular employment.  The Chagga men also have been critical of the Maasai practice of having many children.  They think that the Maasai do not adequately care for their children and that they should make a greater effort to educate them.  One man told me that in his village, families only had as many children as they could educate and that men were expected to have a job and a house before getting married.



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